Floridiana Magazine

History. Heritage. Home.

Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum

There are some locations that seem to beckon you to visit.  The Ponce Inlet Lighthouse is one of them.  Reaching 175 feet majestically into the sky, this red structure is the tallest lighthouse in the state, and second tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States, behind the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Ponce Inlet Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

The day we visited, the lighthouse wasn’t even on my radar.  (I’m certainly not one who would go climbing something that tall just for the fun of it!) Standing at the base and looking up, the lighthouse didn’t look that formidable.   But try climbing the 203 steps and you will definitely have a different opinion.  I know I did.  Thankfully, on the lower levels there were places to stop and catch our breath.  But as we got closer to the top, it felt like the walls were closing in.  No wonder.  Its 32-foot diameter base slowly shrinks to just 12 feet at the top.  Once there, though, the view – even on a cloudy day – is breathtaking – water everywhere you look.  After all, it is located ten miles south of Daytona Beach, where the Halifax River and Indian River flow into the Atlantic Ocean.

Looking out at the Atlantic Ocean

Ponce Inlet Light Station Museum

Construction on the lighthouse began in 1884 and was completed in 1887. Still an active lighthouse, it also serves as the focal point of the Ponce Inlet Light Station and Museum, which includes all of the original dwellings of the keepers as well as other support buildings.  Ponce Inlet is one of the only Light Stations in the United States that has these buildings intact.

Keeper’s Dwellings

There are three Keeper’s Dwellings that serve as the museum: Principal Keeper’s, First Assistant Keeper’s, and Second Assistant Keeper’s.  Each building provides visitors with a different piece of history.  The Principal Keeper’s Dwelling once was home to the principal keeper and his family. Now it houses exhibits about  lighthouses of the world, lighthouses for airplanes, and Native Americans in Florida, to name a few.

Principal Keeper’s Dwelling

The First Assistant’s Dwelling is not open for actual tours, but can be seen through viewing panels on the front and back porches.  It was named in honor of Gladys Meyer Davis whose father served as the last Lighthouse Service Principal Keeper at the lighthouse.  The building is furnished as it would have been in the late 1800s or early 1900s. In the Second Assistant Keeper’s Dwelling, visitors can learn more about the local community, from beach racing to the lives of the keepers and their families.  This building actually served as the first town hall for Ponce Inlet in the early 1960s.

First Assistant’s Dwelling

Lens Exhibit

A visit to the lighthouse wouldn’t be complete with going inside of the Lens Exhibit Building.  Before this trip, I did not know about the different types of lenses that are used in lighthouses.  I still don’t know a lot, but what I do know, is this is an impressive collection.  The rotating first order Fresnel lens from the Cape Canaveral Lighthouse is on display as well as the original fixed first order Fresnel lens that was used from 1887 – 1933 in the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse.

Some of the lenses on display

Sign explaining the history of the Cape Canaveral lens

Learn more about the history of Ponce Inlet Lighthouse through other exhibits onsite.  The Ponce De Leon Inlet Light Station and Museum is open daily from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.  From Memorial Day to Labor Day the hours are extended until 9:00 p.m. with the last tour beginning at 8:00 p.m.  There is an entrance fee which you pay inside the gift shop.

 

Floridiana Magazine (FM) Footnotes:

The Light Station and Museum is operated by the Ponce De Leon Inlet Lighthouse Preservation Association, Inc.  It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1998 and is now visited by more than 170,000 people a year.

According to the Florida Lighthouse Association, there are 30 lighthouses in Florida and preserving all of them would take nearly $20 million dollars.

For those who visit lighthouses on a regular basis, visit United States Lighthouse Society Passport Program and join the free Passport Club.  There is a charge to actually purchase your passport. Information on that is also available on the website.

 

Monticello, Florida

For years, I have been driving Interstate 10 west to Tallahassee either as a student at Florida State University or the parent of two daughters at FSU. In all of those years, I rarely ventured off the main highway to visit any of the smaller towns. However, now that I have moved to Tallahassee, Monticello is becoming one of my favorite small Florida towns.

First, let me say, the drive into Monticello on U.S. Highway 90 will more than likely be full of color in the coming month, as crepe myrtles lined both sides of the road. That in itself would be worth the drive, but there is much more to this charming town.

Jefferson County Courthouse

Monticello is the county seat of Jefferson County, named after Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence. If you know history, you might know Jefferson’s home in Virginia also bore the name Monticello. The town was named after that home and serves as the hub of the county. The Jefferson County Courthouse sits in the center of town and was built in 1909. The Latin phrase “Suum Cuique”, can be seen above its doors, meaning “to each his own” or “may all get their due.”

Walking and Driving Tour of Monticello

Monticello is known for its historic buildings. If you want to get a glimpse of them, all you have to do is to take a drive off the main highway through town and meander through the side streets.  In all, there are more than 600 buildings in the area that were built before 1920. A walking and driving tour has been established to lead visitors to 26 of those structures.

Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce

Make sure to stop at the Chamber of Commerce on the way in to pick up a brochure showing the route along with a brief history of those buildings.

Tour brochures can be picked up at the Chamber of Commerce

The Avera-Clarke House was built in 1890 by state legislator Thomas L. Clarke.  It sits on the corner of U.S. 90 and Pine Street and now serves as a bed and breakfast. With its red shutters and white picket fence, the building itself seems to say “welcome home.”

Avera-Clarke House in Monticello

Other homes in Monticello represent those typical of the Old South.

Budd-Pafford House (1833)

Monticello Opera House

One of the primary historic structures is The Monticello Opera House, built in 1890 by businessman John H. Perkins, in what is known as the Perkins Block. Sitting across from the courthouse, it still serves as a cultural and arts center for the area.  The second floor of the building houses the theatre itself, which is often said to have nearly perfect acoustics.  Local companies regularly put on musical and theatrical shows, as well as other musical groups. (Check the calendar of events for dates and times.)

Monticello Opera House | Photo by Doris Keeler, Floridiana Magazine

Shopping and Other Activities in Monticello

We visited on a Sunday, and other than church activities, the streets of Monticello were relatively empty. The shops were closed, but the town still showed off its charm with antique stores, restaurants and other locally owned businesses.

 

As is the case with small towns, Monticello also lays claim to other activities. The second weekend in May is the Southern Music Rising Festival featuring musicians from all over the country. They set up in the Opera House and on the porches of the houses throughout downtown to entertain visitors with old time music. The town also comes to life during the third weekend in June with the Jefferson County Watermelon Festival.

And if you are into haunted ghost tours, Monticello is known as the “South’s Most Haunted Small Town.” Historic Monticello Ghost Tours are held through September and cemetery scavenger hunts are also offered through reservations.

Monticello is a small town with a big heart and a big history.  This trip definitely taught me a lesson: make it a point to get off the main highways and visit some of the smaller towns in the state. Those towns are where you will experience the “real Florida.”

Town of Murals: Lake Placid, Florida

A sign along Highway 27 at the edge of Lake Placid in Highlands County reads, “Town of Murals.”  Unless you pay attention to the sign or exit on one of the town’s main roads, you might miss what has become a vital part of the town and its history.

Having grown up less than 30 minutes from Lake Placid, I spent many summers at Lake June.  The murals weren’t part of the town then, but it was definitely a place that felt inviting and friendly.  Now that I’ve had a chance to go back and see these murals for myself, I am even more enchanted with this town.


Lake Placid is like any other little town: a farmer’s market, a main street, quaint shops, the locals milling about on a Sunday afternoon. What sets this apart is just what the sign says – murals.  There are nearly 50 of them painted on the sides of buildings around town.  Each one depicts something different about the history of Lake Placid, its culture or some of its prominent citizens.

“Captain” T. W. Webb
Richard Archbold
Early Physicians
Eddie Mae Henderson
Dr. Charles Akes
Dr. Melvil Dewey

This was all the brainchild of Harriet and Bob Porter, themselves depicted on the front of the Chamber of Commerce building.  Harriet says she and her husband got the idea from an impromptu stop in Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia during a motorcycle trip to Alaska.

“We found a little sign by the side of the road that said, ‘The Little Town that Did.’  We decided to see what they did,” Harriet says, “and we saw 32 beautiful larger than life murals that depicted the history of their town.”

That was the beginning of the Lake Placid Mural Society.

“Town of Murals – How it All Began” featuring Bob and Harriet Porter

The Murals

“Tea at Southwinds” Lake Placid’s first mural by Thomas Freeman in 1993

One of the favorite murals around town is the “Cracker Trail Cattle Drive,” taking up the entire side of the old Winn Dixie on the corner of Highway 27 and Route 621 East. The 175 feet wide mural depicts the importance and magnitude of the cattle industry in Florida, and in Lake Placid in particular.  The cattle are all marked with registered brands belonging to Highlands County cattlemen.  Standing in front of this massive mural, you can almost feel the pounding of their hooves as they are being driven out of town.

“Cracker Trail Cattle Drive” by Keith Goodson

It took about six months to paint the mural 1994 by artist Keith Goodson.  Since that time, it’s been repainted at least three times to maintain its beauty – something that is done with all of the murals around town.  The only thing missing from this mural currently is the sound of the cattle mooing which came to an end when the building was vacated and the electricity turned off.

Another mural in town, “The Lost Bear Cub,” also features sound.  It was painted  in 1997 by Terry Smith on the side of a barber shop on East Interlake Boulevard.  Stop by and listen to the mama bear and her cub.

The Artists

Most of the murals were painted by single artists, although there are some that involved the collaboration of two artists – depending on their skill sets.

Part of “Birding” by Thomas Brooks and Terry Smith

“They all have their specialties,” Harriet says. “Some are better at wildlife than others.  Some are better at painting people. This is how we’ve chosen through the years – by what their talents are and what is required in the mural.”

“Caladium Fields” by Thomas Freeman

There has never been a competition or a call put out for the artists.  They were chosen through connections with the Caladium Arts and Crafts Co-op, which Harriet also began with her husband.

The Process

Not just any mural can be painted on the side of a building.  Everything is related to Lake Placid.  The history is researched and provided to an artist, who in turn interprets the information in their own way.  A full-color rendering is provided to the Mural Society before any paint can go on the wall.  Once approved, the painting begins.

All of the original renderings hang inside the Chamber of Commerce and are on display during business hours.

Something for Everyone

“The Murals of Lake Placid” guide book will make your visit complete and can be purchased at the Chamber or any number of businesses in town.  The guide includes information about the mural, the artist and even offers an interactive activity for each of them.

If you or your children like to find hidden pictures, the murals have that to offer as well.  Each of them has something either hidden or missing and the guide book tells you what to look for in each mural.

Portion of “Our Citrus Heritage.” There are four hidden oranges with smiley faces in this mural.  

“Bassin'” Can you find what’s missing?

The mural that started the interactive activities was another of the town’s favorites, “Bassin’” another mural painted by Keith Goodson.  Harriet says when Goodson was finishing up he told her he didn’t think he could put another brush load of paint on the mural.  About two weeks after the scaffolding was removed, a woman told Harriet the artist forgot something.

“I said, ‘forgot?” Harriet remembers, and rushed over to look at it.  “Sure enough, he had.”

Goodson offered to go back and finish it, but Harriet decided against it and made that a regular feature of all murals from that day on.

Response to the Murals

The murals have become an important part of Lake Placid, helping them win the distinction of “America’s Most Interesting Town” in 2013 by the Reader’s Digest. Tourism has seen an increase, which means restaurants and stores benefit from the extra people in town.  More than 150 cities and towns across the United States and Canada have reached out to ask how to start their own mural project.  The result of that is the Florida Mural Trail, comprised of about a dozen other towns showcasing their own artwork.

“America’s Most Interesting Town”

More to Offer

You can easily spend the day in Lake Placid, visiting the murals and reading about their history.  Many of the murals are grouped together, which makes it easy to park the car and walk.  No need to worry about getting in the way of the locals when you play tourist.  They’ll just smile or wave when you stop to take pictures.

“Birding” is located in the Lake Placid Noon Rotary Park along with “Layers of Time”

Of course there is much more to Lake Placid than just the murals, but you’ll have to visit for yourself to find the other hidden gems in this town with “history all around.”

 

FM Footnote:  Selecting mural photographs to share in this post was difficult, so don’t be surprised if there is another post with more photos and more about what Lake Placid has to offer.  In the meantime, please visit this little town (or any of the other towns on the Florida Mural Trail) and see up close the amazing talent and ideas that brought this project to fruition.

Paddlewheelers and the St. Johns River

If you’ve ever driven over the St. Johns River Bridge on Interstate 4 in Sanford, chances are you have caught a glimpse of the Barbara-Lee, a red and white sternwheeler that has set its course to revive the tradition of the ships that once travelled up and down the river.

The Barbara-Lee

History on the River

The St. Johns has been a major waterway for more than 500 years, and lays claim to an abundance of Florida history. It was travelled by the Europeans, the Spanish, and the French, whether it was for exploration or to escape religious persecution. It was used to document the plants and animals living along the river.  After originally travelling the St. Johns with his father in 1765, botanist William Bartram returned to the river in 1774 to take a closer look at life along the St. Johns.  Skip ahead to the 1830s, when the steamboat George Washington became the first to regularly sail the river.  Then, during the Civil War, the river was ruled by the Union Navy. After the war, the river became a tourist destination as well as a freight route. In the late 1800s, 150 steamships operated on the St. Johns River, and according to the St. Johns Rivership website, that was “more than any river south of the Hudson River in New York,” carrying everything from passengers to produce and citrus fruit.

The Barbara-Lee

The Barbara-Lee was built in 1986 and carries on the tradition of sternwheelers that have been sailing along the river for hundreds of years.  She had her inaugural cruise in 2012 and is the only authentic sternwheeler you will see on the St. Johns River.  The 105 foot boat provides a smooth, leisurely trip, allowing riders the opportunity to see the “real” Florida.

We boarded Barbara-Lee for a Saturday dinner cruise and were treated to three hours of a fun Florida experience, from a delicious dinner inside overlooking the massive wooden paddle wheel, to a beautiful sunset from the Captain’s Deck.

Set up for dinner

A Florida sunset on the St. Johns River

The air was cool and the only sound that could be heard was the splashing of the water as the paddle wheel turned. While the evening cruise provided magnificent views of the stars and the lights along the shore in Sanford, you can only imagine what you would see during a daytime cruise.

Looking back at Sanford

Operated by St. Johns Rivership Co., Barbara-Lee runs daily lunch cruises from Wednesday through Sunday, along with dinner cruises on Saturday.  There are five decks on the boat, ample room to spread out to enjoy the views and the cruise. Guests are advised to make reservations ahead of time.

A great place to relax

If you’re looking for a relaxing way to explore Florida, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it just may be time to chart your course with the Barbara-Lee and enjoy a leisurely tour of one of the state’s historic rivers.

Cruising the St. Johns River

 

The Gamble Place

One of the great things about Florida is there is always a new place to explore, one you never knew existed. A recent trip to Port Orange led to the discovery of yet another hidden treasure. Not only does it offer a step back in time, but also a little bit of whimsy and a window into a backwoods retreat.

Egwanulti

Egwanulti is the name given to the Gamble Place by James N. Gamble, the son of the co-founder of the Procter and Gamble Company. Egwanulti is a Native American word meaning “by the water” which is fitting because of its location along Spruce Creek. Gamble bought the land in 1898, but it wasn’t until 1907 that he built the cracker-style house that still stands on the property today. The house features a separate kitchen and dining room, connected by a breezeway or dog-trot, and an open front porch.  The back porch, with its chairs and benches, opens to the back yard with the creek just steps away.  Sitting on the porch, you can just imagine the stories shared by those who once called this place home during the winter months.

Gamble Place

An inviting back porch

Besides the house, Gamble also rebuilt a packing house on the property to process the citrus from his own grove.

Citrus Packing House

The Gamble Place sits on 175 acres and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1993.

Snow White Cottage

“Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho
It’s home from work we go…”

If those song lyrics conjure up a memory, then this Florida stop is a must-see.  Nestled along the banks of Spruce Creek on the eastern portion of the Gamble property, sits a replica of the Snow White Cottage. You know the one she stayed in with the dwarfs?  The cottage started out as plans for a playhouse, but by the time it was finished, it had expanded into a full-size replica and served as a retreat for guests of all ages. Judge Alfred K. Nippert, Gamble’s son-in-law, got the idea for the cottage after the Disney movie’s release in 1937, just three months after the death of his wife.

Snow White Cottage

Along with the cottage, there are two other structures.  The Diamond Mine is built in the same style as the cottage and is two stories.  The ground floor once had a tank used to store water.  On the second floor, a child’s dream – a playhouse.

“The Diamond Mine”

What would the cottage be without the Wicked Witch lurking nearby?  An old hollow cypress tree was moved to the property, placed on a stone foundation and roofed.  If you look closely, you’ll see a familiar face peering out of the window.

Wicked Witch’s Hut

Cracker Creek

Before you can get onto the Gamble property, you have to stop at the Cracker Creek office to pay a minimal admission fee. While you’re there though, ask about canoe and kayak rentals, or the hydro-bike rentals.  For a more leisurely trip down Spruce Creek, they also offer pontoon boat tours Friday through Sunday.

Cracker Creek Office

Rent a canoe or bring your own

Take a leisurely cruise

No matter if you’re at the Gamble Place or walking around the grounds at Cracker Creek, magnificent peacocks can be seen roaming the property.  These close encounters bring to full light the iridescent blues and greens in their feathers.

Beautiful peacocks roam the property

Cracker Creek and the Gamble Place are located in Port Orange off Taylor Road.  You cannot get inside the actual buildings through the self-tour.  The building tour is available for groups of ten or more but reservations must be made in advance.